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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small shop earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary honour.